Let's Talk About Hooks
As I sit here at my fly tying desk, trying to decide what to tie, I can’t help but take note of all the hooks I have in front of me.
I’m noticing some are a size 6 2XL, while others have labels like 2/0 1XSTRONG. If you are new to fly tying, you are likely a little confused when looking at hooks, or at the very least, a bit curious as to what these labels mean, so today we are going to talk about just that.
Understanding what a hook is, it’s various parts, and how companies label these hooks. With this knowledge you should have no problem navigating any hook providers lineup, and you should end that experience with the confidence that you purchased the hooks you needed.
First off, let's talk about the parts of a hook. One thing all hooks have in common is that they all have a hook gap, or “gape”, a point, a shank, an eye, a bend, and a throat. Some hooks also have a barb, while others do not, but we will touch on that later in this article.
Hook Sizing/Gap
In order to make it easier, the size of the hook gap will directly relate to a hook size. When you are looking to purchase hooks you will generally see them range in sizes from 1-30. There are hooks outside of this size range but we will touch on them separately later in this article.
For the size range mentioned, size 1 is the largest, and as the numbers increase, the hooks get smaller. So a size 18 is much smaller than a size 6. The gap of a size 4 hook will be larger than the gap of a size 8 hook. When hooks become larger than a size one, they begin to use a “ought” scale, and they also now get bigger as the number increases. So if you were to go from largest to smallest it would look something like this, 4/0,2/0,1/0,1,2,4 and so on.
When it comes to sizing a hook, the manufacturer assigns a size based on the gap, or “gape” of the hook. Now when talking about the hook gap, we are essentially talking about the space between the shank and the point of the fly. This gap is what facilitates good hookups, and a gap that is too small will result in lots of lost fish.
Selecting the right gap, or size of the hook, is the first step in the hook selection process. In order for companies to provide a larger variety of hooks, they need a way to expand up on the sizes that already exist. To do this, they started using additional information beside the hook size. This information may be telling you that the shank of the hook is longer than standard, or that the wire used in making the hook is lighter, or stronger.
They do this by assigning a label like “1XL” or “1XSTRONG” along with the hook size. What “1XL” would mean is that this hook is a bit longer than the standard length, while retaining the same hook gap, or “size”. Hooks can vary in length, either shorter or longer than standard, they can also vary greatly in the wire gauge used to produce them. If you compare the wire from a size 14 dry fly hook with a stout heavy duty carp hook, you will see a very obvious difference.
Hooks can also be sold with a wider gap than standard, and this would be represented with a1XWIDE, or a 2XWIDE. It’s through the use of this information that companies can keep their lineup manageable and keep it simple enough for us to know what we are buying.
Another way to put it is, a size 14 1XL, meaning it is a bit longer than a standard 14, will be equal in length to a standard size 12 hook, and a size 12 1XL will be equal in length to a standard size 10. So by going to a 1XL, or 2XL, you are essentially making your fly longer while retaining the original hook gap.
Hook Sizing/Gap
In order to make it easier, the size of the hook gap will directly relate to a hook size. When you are looking to purchase hooks you will generally see them range in sizes from 1-30. There are hooks outside of this size range but we will touch on them separately later in this article.
For the size range mentioned, size 1 is the largest, and as the numbers increase, the hooks get smaller. So a size 18 is much smaller than a size 6. The gap of a size 4 hook will be larger than the gap of a size 8 hook. When hooks become larger than a size one, they begin to use a “ought” scale, and they also now get bigger as the number increases. So if you were to go from largest to smallest it would look something like this, 4/0,2/0,1/0,1,2,4 and so on.
When it comes to sizing a hook, the manufacturer assigns a size based on the gap, or “gape” of the hook. Now when talking about the hook gap, we are essentially talking about the space between the shank and the point of the fly. This gap is what facilitates good hookups, and a gap that is too small will result in lots of lost fish.
Selecting the right gap, or size of the hook, is the first step in the hook selection process. In order for companies to provide a larger variety of hooks, they need a way to expand up on the sizes that already exist. To do this, they started using additional information beside the hook size. This information may be telling you that the shank of the hook is longer than standard, or that the wire used in making the hook is lighter, or stronger.
They do this by assigning a label like “1XL” or “1XSTRONG” along with the hook size. What “1XL” would mean is that this hook is a bit longer than the standard length, while retaining the same hook gap, or “size”. Hooks can vary in length, either shorter or longer than standard, they can also vary greatly in the wire gauge used to produce them. If you compare the wire from a size 14 dry fly hook with a stout heavy duty carp hook, you will see a very obvious difference.
Hooks can also be sold with a wider gap than standard, and this would be represented with a1XWIDE, or a 2XWIDE. It’s through the use of this information that companies can keep their lineup manageable and keep it simple enough for us to know what we are buying.
Another way to put it is, a size 14 1XL, meaning it is a bit longer than a standard 14, will be equal in length to a standard size 12 hook, and a size 12 1XL will be equal in length to a standard size 10. So by going to a 1XL, or 2XL, you are essentially making your fly longer while retaining the original hook gap.
The shank
The shank of the hook is the longest part of the hook, and it is where you tie on your materials when tying a fly.
The shank is typically straight, or curved. The straight shank is commonly used for streamers, whereas the curved shank is a great choice for tying nymph sand dries as it can add some “movement” to the fly.
The curved shank also does a better job of imitating certain insects that have a natural curve to their shape. Scuds, stoneflies, chironomids, midges, hoppers and a lot of emergers are all examples of a fly that would benefit from a curved shank rather than a straight one.
The Throat
Another part of a hook not often talked about is the throat.
The throat is the area between the bend, and the point. The throat is the part of the hook that would be home to the barb, if the hook you are using has one.
The throat can be fairly long on some competition hooks, as a longer throat simply means more of the hook will penetrate the fish’s mouth. In theory, a longer throat could hold fish better than a shorter throat.
However, you will rarely even seethe throat mentioned when looking at fly tying hooks. But, in the name of hook anatomy, it would be a mistake to exclude it from this article.
The Point
Now let's talk about the point of the fly. This is the business end that penetrates a fish's mouth.
It is very important that your hook is as sharp as possible, as a dull point won't penetrate nearly as easily or deeply, resulting in poorly hooked, and lost fish. Ensuring you have selected a brand and style of hook that offers a sticky sharp point is necessary. For the most part, the point won’t vary a ton from one manufacturer to the next, but in competition fishing especially, some anglers have grown to favour specific hook points.
The five main styles of hook points are the spear, needle, rolled in, hollow, and knife edge. Needle and spear are the most common hooks points while some of the other types are much more beneficial for bait fishing rather than fly fishing.
Spear - The spear point runs parallel to the hook shank. A good choice for minimizing hooking damage to fish, and the easiest of the five to sharpen. Also the most common hook point available on the market.
Needle - One of the most common point types behind the spear point. It has a point that slightly angles up towards the shank of the hook. It creates a small uniform hole when penetrating a fish's mouth. These hooks cause minimal damage to fish and are ideal for strong fighting, thrashing fish.
Rolled In - The hooks are very sharp, and they can pin and hold a fish with minimal effort. The way the hook is designed allows for the tip to point up towards the eye of the hook. This keeps the hooks pressure inline with your fishing line, allowing for a solid hook set that can hold fish very well. These points are not as strong as a needle or spear point so that should be considered when fishing for large fish with tougher mouths.
Hollow - A hollow point is similar to a needle aside from the fact that the tip portion of the point makes an abrupt turn up towards the shank. They have great holding ability but can be tougher to get a good hook set with due to the point.
Knife Edge - This hook point should be in a category all of its own. Rather than relying solely on the tip for penetration the knife edge point has two sharpened edges on the side of the point opposite the shank. These hooks have unreal penetration but they also can cause much more damage to the fish. If you are harvesting your catch it may not be as much of a concern but if catch and release is your goal you may want to shy away from these hook points.
Another part of the point that you may or may not be familiar with, is the barb. Depending on where you fish, the use of barbless hooks may be mandatory, and even if it isn’t, you may choose to use them for an added challenge, or may want to limit the amount of damage done to the fish you hook. Regardless, barbs exist, so we should talk about them.
The barb itself is just another point, but it runs backwards at an angle away from the tip of the hook. Once the barb enters the mouth of a fish, it pins itself and makes it almost impossible for the hook to back out. This can keep a fish on longer than it otherwise would be, and it can also keep a fish pinned if you happen to introduce slack into your line while fighting the fish. The most important thing is to make sure you check your regulations to ensure you can use barbed hooks in your area. Outside of regulations, the choice is yours.
The Eye Of The Hook
Ring or Brazed - The overwhelming majority of hooks are all going to share the same ring eye, either ringed or brazed. A ringed eye means that the wire is folded tight up against the shank, whereas a brazed eye is fuzed directly to the hook shank. These will both be round and like stated, will be the most common eye you find.
Needle - Needle eyes are another type of eye as well and rather than be round, they are oval shaped, with the length of the oval running inline with the shank. Less common, but you still may see them when looking for hooks. These hooks are often used for bait fishing as the eye of the hook slips through the bait easier than a ringed or braised eye would.
Tapered - Another style is the tapered eye, this ringed eye tapers as the wire folds over to the shank. Offering a little bit of weight loss this hook is often used by anglers looking to tie and fish dry flies.
Looped - The fifth type of eye is the looped eye, which has the look of a ringed eye right up until it is about to contact the shank, which is where it abruptly turns and follows along the shank parallel. These hooks are often used for wet flies as the additional wire will add some weight to the hook and help it sink. These hooks are commonly used for salmon and trout flies meant to be swung.
Now that we have talked about the various shapes you can find a hook eye in, we should start talking about the different orientations you may encounter.
Straight Eye - A straight eye is just as it sounds. The eye of the hook runs directly inline with the shank of the hook, it has no upward or downward angle applied.
Down Eye - Just as it sounds the eye of the hook is turned down at a 45 degree angle in relation to the shank. The down eye can help adjust the way the fly rides in the water, and it can also be used if you want to snell a hook without creating an unnatural bend in the line.
Up Eye - Just the opposite of a down eye. An up eye acts similar to a down eye in that it can slightly adjust the way a fly would ride in the water. It also allows you more room on the belly of the shank to tie materials by having the eye point up and away. Often, you will see salmon or steelhead anglers who swing flies using up eye hooks. As well, it can also help if you want to snell a hook without again creating an unnatural bend in the line.
Jig Eye - The jig eye has a 90 degree bend in the uppermost part of the shank. This allows you to seat a slotted bead onto the hook, and still have the eye exit the bead at a perpendicular angle to the shank. This gives you the time tested jigging motion that would be otherwise hard to attain. The way the eye is oriented in relation to the bead allows the fly to ride hook up as well. The hook setting and fish fighting characteristics of a jig hook also make it a common choice for competitive anglers. The way the eye orients itself inline with the point of the hook creates for a more consistent pressure on the fish and also keep the hook point buried where it needs to be.
The Eye Of The Hook
Ring or Brazed - The overwhelming majority of hooks are all going to share the same ring eye, either ringed or brazed. A ringed eye means that the wire is folded tight up against the shank, whereas a brazed eye is fuzed directly to the hook shank. These will both be round and like stated, will be the most common eye you find.
Needle - Needle eyes are another type of eye as well and rather than be round, they are oval shaped, with the length of the oval running inline with the shank. Less common, but you still may see them when looking for hooks. These hooks are often used for bait fishing as the eye of the hook slips through the bait easier than a ringed or braised eye would.
Tapered - Another style is the tapered eye, this ringed eye tapers as the wire folds over to the shank. Offering a little bit of weight loss this hook is often used by anglers looking to tie and fish dry flies.
Looped - The fifth type of eye is the looped eye, which has the look of a ringed eye right up until it is about to contact the shank, which is where it abruptly turns and follows along the shank parallel. These hooks are often used for wet flies as the additional wire will add some weight to the hook and help it sink. These hooks are commonly used for salmon and trout flies meant to be swung.
Now that we have talked about the various shapes you can find a hook eye in, we should start talking about the different orientations you may encounter.
Straight Eye - A straight eye is just as it sounds. The eye of the hook runs directly inline with the shank of the hook, it has no upward or downward angle applied.
Down Eye - Just as it sounds the eye of the hook is turned down at a 45 degree angle in relation to the shank. The down eye can help adjust the way the fly rides in the water, and it can also be used if you want to snell a hook without creating an unnatural bend in the line.
Up Eye - Just the opposite of a down eye. An up eye acts similar to a down eye in that it can slightly adjust the way a fly would ride in the water. It also allows you more room on the belly of the shank to tie materials by having the eye point up and away. Often, you will see salmon or steelhead anglers who swing flies using up eye hooks. As well, it can also help if you want to snell a hook without again creating an unnatural bend in the line.
Jig Eye - The jig eye has a 90 degree bend in the uppermost part of the shank. This allows you to seat a slotted bead onto the hook, and still have the eye exit the bead at a perpendicular angle to the shank. This gives you the time tested jigging motion that would be otherwise hard to attain. The way the eye is oriented in relation to the bead allows the fly to ride hook up as well. The hook setting and fish fighting characteristics of a jig hook also make it a common choice for competitive anglers. The way the eye orients itself inline with the point of the hook creates for a more consistent pressure on the fish and also keep the hook point buried where it needs to be.
The Bend
Another part of the hook we should touch on is the bend of the hook.
Most hooks you see are going to have a J bend, or a round bend. While there are a few other options that we will touch on the majority of your tying will likely be on round bend hooks.
J or Round - These are the most common hooks you will see. The bend is uniform and constant.
Sproat - The sproat bend starts off just like a J, or round bend but as it approaches the throat it bends at a much steeper angle than the J bend. This can create a “pocket” in the bend for which can help in pinning fish. However, one thing to consider if you plan to use hooks with abend like this is that fly tying beads have a hard time getting around the bend.
Limerick - Similar to a sproat bend, but it has an even more aggressive angle when it comes to the area where the bend turns into the throat. Often used in top water flies for predator fish.
Sneck - I will be honest, I don’t see many of these hooks around. A sneck hook doesn't use rounded bends, instead where you would expect a round bend you will see a 90 degree turn. Essentially making the hook look square, very uncommon, but still around. I can tell you I have never seen a fly tied onto one of these but they do exist so that’s why they were mentioned.
And there you have it. The anatomy of a hook, and a pretty in depth explanation of all the parts.
Hopefully this article can make it a little easier for you to understand what you are looking at, and what the manufacturers are trying to tell you on their labels. It may seem overwhelming at first, but trust me, it isn’t as complicated as it seems.
Like anything, there is a learning curve but you will likely find that your area, or the species you fish for lend themselves to certain hooks, and it will be unlikely you are tying enough variety of flies to need all of these hooks.
So grab the hooks you need, and get to tying!!!!
Togens Hooks VS Daichii Review
"If I remember the timeline correctly we are now about two years back from today, so that would be two full years fishing with the Togen Curved Nymph hook. Wanna know how many I’ve broken? Let’s just put it this way … if I had a camera available to take a picture of every one of them that broke on me, I still wouldn’t be able to post a picture! That’s right … NONE!" - Rob
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